Japanese food is intensely regional. Every area is proud of its own dishes, from Hokkaido crab and Osaka okonomiyaki to Hiroshima's layered pancake, Fukuoka ramen and Kyoto tofu.
Good food is everywhere and at every price: a station noodle stand, a department store food hall or a counter of eight seats where the chef has made one thing for forty years.
When to goAll year. Each season has its own specialities: bamboo shoots in spring, eel in summer, matsutake in autumn, crab and oysters in winter.
Where to go
-
OsakaOsaka · 大阪Japan's kitchen: takoyaki, okonomiyaki and Dotonbori at night. -
TokyoTokyo · 東京One of the world's most Michelin-starred cities, and great sushi at every price. -
KyotoKyoto · 京都Kaiseki, tofu, matcha sweets and Nishiki Market. -
HokkaidoHokkaido · 北海道Seafood, miso ramen, dairy and the Sapporo beer garden. -
FukuokaFukuoka · 福岡Tonkotsu ramen and riverside yatai street stalls. -
HiroshimaHiroshima · 広島Layered okonomiyaki and Miyajima oysters.
Good to know
- Tipping isn't done; say gochisosama deshita when you leave.
- Ticket machines at the door are common at ramen shops; pay first, hand over the ticket.
- Department store basements (depachika) are perfect for a picnic or a train meal.