Kagawa香川

Kagawa Travel Guide: Udon Pilgrimages, Feudal Stroll Gardens & The Seto Art Islands

Occupying the northeast corner of Shikoku along the tranquil, island-studded waters of the Seto Inland Sea, Kagawa Prefecture (香川県) is the smallest prefecture by landmass in all of Japan. Despite its compact footprint, Kagawa commands an outsized cultural and economic presence across the archipelago. Historically designated as Sanuki Province, this low-rainfall, sun-drenched maritime basin was renowned for its traditional "Three Whites" (Sanpaku)—salt harvested from coastal evaporation pans, cane sugar (Wasanbon), and high-gluten wheat flour. Together with mineral-rich dashi kelp shipped via historic Kitamaebune cargo vessels and small dried sardines (iriko) netted around Ibukijima, this agricultural convergence birthed Kagawa's defining national obsession: Sanuki Udon, earning the prefecture its proud moniker, Udon-ken (The Udon Prefecture).

Beyond its culinary fame, Kagawa is a premier global destination for fine art, sacred pilgrimage, and landscape architecture. Its capital, Takamatsu, developed as the grand maritime portal to Shikoku under the Matsudaira samurai clan, who cultivated Ritsurin Kōen—one of the largest and most magnificent feudal stroll gardens in Japan. Just offshore lies the world-renowned contemporary art archipelago anchored by Naoshima, Teshima, and Megijima, which host the triennial Setouchi Triennale. To the southwest, the mountain shrine of Kotohira-gū (Konpira-san) has welcomed travelers up its grueling stone staircases for centuries. Connected directly to Honshu by the colossal multi-span Great Seto Bridge, Kagawa provides an essential, easily navigated gateway to Shikoku.

Navigating Kagawa Prefecture: Core Geographic Sectors

Kagawa’s landscape is framed by the calm waters of the Seto Inland Sea to the north and the forested spine of the Sanuki Mountain Range to the south, dividing into four primary travel sectors:

Top Things to Do Across Kagawa

1. Wander the Daimyo Splendor of Ritsurin Kōen

Constructed over a period of more than one hundred years by successive daimyo lords of the Ikoma and Matsudaira clans, Ritsurin Garden (Ritsurin Kōen) in Takamatsu is widely celebrated as one of the finest landscape gardens in Japan. Spanning seventy-five hectares against the forested emerald backdrop of Mount Shiun, Ritsurin is designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty—holding three stars in the Michelin Green Guide Japan.

Unlike standard urban parks, Ritsurin was designed as a classic Kaiyūshiki (circuit-style stroll garden) where every few steps reveal a deliberate shift in scenery: "Ippo Ikkei" (One Step, One View). The garden features six tranquil ponds, thirteen landscaped miniature hills, and over 1,400 meticulously manicured pine trees, hundreds of which are ancient specimens trained over centuries into twisted, sculptural bonsai-like silhouettes (Hako-matsu and Byōbu-matsu).

Cross the iconic curved wooden Engetsu-kyō (Crescent Moon Bridge), gaze across the lotus-filled waters of South Lake from the crest of Hirahō hill, and step inside the rustic Kikugetsu-tei (Moon Scoop Pavilion). Here, visitors can slide open timber screen walls to sip freshly whisked green tea alongside traditional Wasanbon sugar confections while listening to water lap against the pavilion foundation pilings.

2. Explore Contemporary Masterpieces on Naoshima

Located roughly fifty minutes by passenger ferry from Takamatsu Port, the island of Naoshima is universally acclaimed as a global epicenter of contemporary art and architecture, developed under the visionary patronage of Benesse Holdings and Pritzker Prize-winning architect Tadao Ando:

• Chichu Art Museum: Built almost entirely underground to preserve the natural coastal ridge and seascape of the Seto Inland Sea, this subterranean concrete complex uses natural skylights and architectural voids to illuminate monumental masterworks: five monumental water lily canvases from Claude Monet’s late period, light installations by James Turrell, and a monumental granite sphere chamber by Walter De Maria.
• Benesse House Museum: An integrated museum-hotel where visitors encounter contemporary works by Cy Twombly, David Hockney, and Bruce Nauman, stepping outside onto coastal cliff paths to discover Yayoi Kusama's iconic Yellow Pumpkin perched at the end of an old concrete pier jutting into the blue sea.
• Art House Project (Honmura): An innovative urban regeneration project where abandoned wooden village homes, workshops, a dentist's office, and a Shinto shrine have been converted by master artists into permanent site-specific installations, notably Minamidera (designed by Tadao Ando housing James Turrell's sensory deprivation light work Backside of the Moon).

3. Immerse in Architectural Purity at the Teshima Art Museum

Located a short ferry hop east of Naoshima on the rural island of Teshima, the Teshima Art Museum is one of the most sublime collaborations between art and architecture in modern history. Created by artist Rei Naito and architect Ryue Nishizawa (co-founder of SANAA), the museum sits nestled amidst terraced rice paddies overlooking the sea, designed as an ultra-thin, freestanding white concrete shell measuring sixty meters across with no interior support pillars.

Two large oval apertures in the ceiling open the interior directly to the elements, admitting sky, sunlight, coastal winds, and falling rain. Inside, visitors remove their shoes to stand in complete silence on a smooth concrete floor where tiny droplets of underground spring water emerge mysteriously from micro-pores in the surface, pooling, gliding, and merging together across the floor like living biological organisms.

4. Climb the 1,368 Sacred Steps of Kotohira-gū (Konpira-san)

Perched high on the wooded mountain slopes of Mount Zōzu in western Kagawa, Kotohira-gū—popularly known as Konpira-san—is one of Japan’s most revered pilgrimage shrines. Dedicated to Ōmononushi no Mikoto, the Shinto protector deity of mariners, sailors, and fishermen, the shrine has drawn pilgrims for over a millennium.

Reaching the shrine requires tackling a grueling stone mountain staircase lined with souvenir shops, udon eateries, and ancient stone lanterns:

• The Main Hall (Hongū): Sits at step 785. The observation platform rewards climbers with sweeping panoramic views across the Sanuki Plain to the symmetrical volcanic cone of Mount Iino ("Sanuki Fuji"). Adjacent sits the Ema Hall, displaying maritime offerings, photographs of fishing fleets, and even a miniature modern solar-powered yacht.
• The Inner Sanctuary (Izutama Shrine): Dedicated hikers push onward through dense cedar and camphor forests to conquer all 1,368 steps, reaching the clifftop inner shrine overlooking the valleys below.

At the base of the mountain sits Kanamaru-za (Old Konpira Grand Theatre), constructed in 1835. It is the oldest surviving wooden Kabuki playhouse in Japan, complete with manual revolving stages, trapdoors (suppon), and wooden tatami box seating.

5. Capture Mirror Reflections at Chichibugahama Beach

Stretching along the coast of Mitoyo in western Kagawa, Chichibugahama Beach is a one-kilometer sandy beach celebrated nationwide as the "Salar de Uyuni of Japan." During low tide at calm twilight, water drains from the beach, leaving behind wide, shallow tide pools on the smooth sand.

When windless conditions coincide with the setting sun over the Seto Inland Sea, the pools transform into mirror-like reflecting glasses. Photographers position subjects on the far edge of the pools to capture dramatic, colorful silhouette reflections against fiery crimson and violet sunset horizons.

6. Explore Sea-Water Moats at Takamatsu Castle (Tamamo Park)

Constructed in 1590 by warlord Ikeda Kōmasa along the coastline, Takamatsu Castle is one of only three Mizujiro (sea-water castles) ever built in Japan. Rather than using river water, the castle's moats were connected directly to the Seto Inland Sea via tidal water gates; sea bream and saltwater fish swim through the moats today, where visitors can board small wooden boats to feed the fish (a ritual called Tai-gan-jōju).

While the original main keep was dismantled in the Meiji era, the impressive dry-laid stone foundation has been fully restored, offering elevated views over the grounds. Inside the inner bailey sits Hiunkaku Palace, a magnificent 1917 timber residence blending traditional shoin-zukuri architecture with early Western styling, surrounded by manicured dry gravel gardens.

Kagawa Food Culture: The Church of Sanuki Udon & Bone-in Chicken

Dining in Kagawa is dominated by an artisanal mastery of noodles unmatched anywhere else in the world, balanced by robust, peppery poultry comfort dishes:

• Sanuki Udon: The undisputed soul of Kagawa. Characterized by thick, square-cut wheat noodles possessing an extraordinary balance of elasticity and toothsome chewiness, known locally as Koshi. The magic lies in the local broth: an intensely fragrant, clear dashi brewed not with heavy bonito flakes, but with Iriko (sun-dried baby anchovies/sardines) from the nearby island of Ibukijima, yielding a clean, savory, marine-rich depth.
  • Ordering Styles:
    • Kake Udon: Hot noodles in a warm dashi broth, topped with scallions and ginger.
    • Kamatama Udon: Piping-hot noodles lifted directly from the boiling water vat into a bowl, immediately tossed with a raw egg and dark soy sauce, creating a rich, velvety carbonara-like glaze.
    • Bukkake Udon: Chilled or warm noodles served in a shallow pool of highly concentrated, savory dashi broth with grated daikon and lemon.
    • Zaru Udon: Chilled noodles served on a bamboo mat, dipped into a concentrated dashi sauce.
  • The Udon Mill Experience (Seimenjo): For the most authentic experience, venture into the countryside to working noodle factories like Gamō, Yamauchi, or Nagata in Kanoka. Diners grab a plastic tray, order noodles by portion size (Ichi-tamaz = 1 ball), pick out freshly fried vegetable tempura or fish cakes, and dispense their own boiling broth from brass urns. Bowls typically cost between ¥250 and ¥450.
• Honetsuki-dori (Bone-in Roasted Chicken): Kagawa’s premier izakaya comfort food, invented in the castle city of Marugame in the 1950s. A whole bone-in chicken thigh is marinated with garlic, salt, and coarse black pepper, then roasted in high-temperature ovens until the skin becomes blistered and crackling crisp while the interior remains succulent and juicy. Ordered in two distinct styles:
  • Oyadori (Mature Chicken): Firmer, muscular meat requiring serious chewing, yielding deep, concentrated umami flavors prized by connoisseurs.
  • Wakadori (Young Chicken): Tender, juicy, and soft, pulling effortlessly off the bone.
  Dining Ritual: Diners tear into the chicken with bare hands, dipping wedges of raw green cabbage directly into the spicy chicken juices and rendered fat pooling at the bottom of the stainless-steel serving plate.
• Olive Beef (Sanuki Wagyu): Raised exclusively on Shodoshima and the Kagawa plains, cattle are fed a specialized diet incorporating roasted, pressed olive pulp salvaged from local olive oil production. The natural oleic acid and antioxidants in the olives give the finely marbled beef an exceptionally light, sweet fat profile that melts on the tongue without greasiness.
• Wasanbon Sugar: A refined, fine-grained traditional Japanese sugar cultivated from native sugarcane (Chikuto) in eastern Kagawa since the Edo period. Kneaded and pressed by hand across wooden boards five times (hence the name Wasanbon, meaning "thrice-refined tray sugar"), it delivers a delicate, powdery texture that dissolves instantly on the tongue with subtle honey-like notes, used to cast exquisite seasonal dry sweets (Higashi) for tea ceremonies.

Transportation: The Great Seto Bridge & Nostalgic Kotoden Trams

Kagawa is the best-connected prefecture on Shikoku, linked seamlessly to Honshu via high-speed rail lines and scenic coastal ferries:

• Honshu to Takamatsu via the Great Seto Bridge:
  • JR Marine Liner (Rapid Train): Connects JR Okayama Station (a major Sanyō Shinkansen stop) directly to JR Takamatsu Station in just 53 minutes. Trains depart every 30 minutes, crossing the colossal double-decked Great Seto Bridge, offering panoramic views over the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. (Fully covered by the nationwide JR Rail Pass and JR All Shikoku Rail Pass).
• Kotohira Electric Railway (Kotoden): The beloved local vintage electric railway network of Kagawa. Operating three lines (Kotohira, Nagao, and Shido) from its hub at Takamatsu-Chikkō Station (adjacent to Takamatsu Castle ruins):
  • The Kotohira Line (Yellow) connects Takamatsu directly to Ritsurin Garden (Ritsurin-Kōen Station) and the pilgrimage foot of Kotohira-gū (Kotoden-Kotohira Station) in roughly 60 minutes.
  • Kotoden operates its own contactless smartcard system (IruCa), but ticket gates and vending machines fully accept national digital Suica, Pasmo, and ICOCA smartphone cards.
• Ferry Networks to the Art Islands:
  • Takamatsu Port to Naoshima (Miyanoura): Large passenger/car ferries take 50 minutes (approx. ¥520); high-speed passenger catamarans take roughly 30 minutes.
  • Takamatsu Port to Teshima (Ieura / Karato): High-speed catamarans take 35 to 50 minutes.
  • Crucial Art Island Transit Rule: Island buses on Naoshima and Teshima have limited capacities; renting an electric assist bicycle (e-bike) immediately upon arriving at ferry ports is the single most efficient way to navigate the steep island hills.

Where to Stay in Kagawa: Strategic Base Camps

Regional Day Trips Across Kagawa Prefecture

1. Shodoshima: Olives, Soy Sauce & Wild Gorges

A sixty-minute ferry ride from Takamatsu Port leads to Shodoshima, the second-largest island in the Seto Inland Sea. Blessed with a warm, dry Mediterranean-style climate, it is the historic birthplace of olive cultivation in Japan. Stroll through the white windmill gardens of the Shodoshima Olive Park, walk across Angel Road—a sandbar that appears mysteriously out of the sea only twice daily during low tide—and hike through Kankakei Gorge, a spectacular volcanic canyon ranking among Japan's top three gorges, featuring a ropeway gliding past bizarre rock pinnacles that blaze in scarlet maple foliage in autumn.

2. Mount Yashima: Battlefields & Peninsula Panoramas

Rising like a colossal, flat-topped green battleship east of Takamatsu, Yashima is a lava plateau steeped in martial history. It was here in 1185 that the historic Battle of Yashima took place, where Minamoto warriors defeated the Taira clan in the Genpei War. Visit the mountaintop temple of Yashima-ji (Temple 84 of the Shikoku Pilgrimage), and stroll along the Shishi no Reigan clifftop lookout. Here, visitors purchase small unglazed clay discs (Kawarake) and throw them off the sheer precipice into the sea below, an ancient ritual symbol of casting away negative energy and praying for victory.

3. Zenigata Sunae: The Giant Sand Coin of Kan'onji

Carved into the white sands of Ariake Beach in western Kagawa sits Zenigata Sunae—a colossal sand sculpture measuring 122 meters across, shaped to mimic an ancient Edo-period Kan'ei Tsūhō bronze coin. According to legend, local villagers excavated the massive coin sculpture in a single night in 1633 to welcome visiting lord Ikoma Takatoshi. Looking down from the observation deck of Kotohiki Park, perspective makes the oval sandwork appear as a perfect circle; local folklore promises that anyone who gazes upon the giant sand coin will live a life free of financial worry.

Best Seasons to Visit Kagawa

• Spring (Late March to Mid-April): A splendid time of year across the prefecture. Somei-yoshino cherry trees bloom along the historic stone moats of Takamatsu Castle, frame the pagodas of Zentsū-ji, and blanket the hills of Ritsurin Garden. Mild, sunny sightseeing weather averaging 14°C to 19°C (57°F–66°F) makes cycling across the art islands delightful.
• Autumn (October to Late November): The premier season for weather and visual spectacle. Crisp, clear skies, low humidity, and comfortable daytime temperatures (15°C–20°C / 59°F–68°F). The ancient maple trees of Ritsurin Garden and the dramatic sheer cliff walls of Kankakei Gorge on Shodoshima explode in brilliant shades of golden yellow, bronze, and crimson.
• The Setouchi Triennale Years: Held every three years across spring, summer, and autumn seasons, this world-renowned international art festival transforms twelve islands and two coastal ports into living open-air galleries. Scores of additional site-specific architectural pavilions and performances open during official festival sessions.
• Winter (December to February): Cool, crisp, and sunny. Because the Shikoku and Chūgoku mountains shield Kagawa from heavy Pacific and Sea of Japan storms, the prefecture receives very little rain or snow, enjoying abundant winter sunshine. Temperatures average 4°C to 11°C (39°F–52°F). Winter is the premier season to savor piping-hot bowls of Kamatama Udon and roast chicken in Takamatsu's lively arcades.
• Summer (July to August): Warm, breezy, and maritime, with temperatures reaching 31°C to 33°C (88°F–91°F). The calm waters of the Seto Inland Sea offer ideal conditions for sea kayaking, swimming at Shodoshima and Chichibugahama, and relaxing at waterfront cafes along Takamatsu’s Kitahama Alley.